Multi-Room Wireless Sound System? 641
abrinton asks: "I just went into escrow on a new house. Of course, first thoughts are to the sound system. I don't want to wire. Anything. I've got a wireless network, so computers are all sorted. But what do I do for sound? I need ideas for a centrally controlled sound system that can use 802.11g for transport. I'd like to have the same music everywhere, or better still, options to play different things in different rooms. I've got access to tons of old PIII laptops, wireless gear, old computers, sound cards, etc to make this work. Has anyone got any ideas or done anything like this?"
iTunes (Score:5, Informative)
I don't know if PIII laptops can run iTunes or not, but my six year old Powerbook spins tunes with no problem whatsoever. For those truly particular about their music ( or those with high end home stereo systems possessing digital audio connectors ), Powermac G5's and the new 17in Powerbook also have digital audio out. Combine that with Apple's lossless audio format and you have some kick ass tunage available without ever again having to search through your CD collection for that particular song. A cheaper option is to purchase Airport Express units for differing parts of your house that each have an audio out and can plug into any available power socket.
Re:iTunes (Score:5, Funny)
What, are you famous or something? Why would anybody else be telling us what you use in your home? And BTW, who the hell are you anyway?
Re:iTunes (Score:5, Informative)
Re:iTunes (Score:3, Informative)
Just to clarify so we don't have to say "should" anymore: I have a compaq e500 p3 700mhz laptop that has no problem running iTunes.
According to Apple [apple.com.au] you need Windows XP or 2000, 500mhz, 128megs, and of course a hard drive of sufficient size to store whatever music you have.
Re:iTunes (Score:5, Informative)
Re:iTunes (Score:5, Informative)
1. Requires airport express. You name the Airport Express(es) as "Living Room", "Kitchen", etc. You can then select these from any wi-fi Mac and stream to each one (ie - push). Airport Express has digital audio-out, BTW.
2. You only need one central music library really. You then share that library with iTunes. Any other copies of iTunes on the network (Mac or PC) can the see that library and any playlists on it, and play music from it. I haven't noticed any lag when playing music shared this way, even over wireless networks even with 3 or 4 people sharing.
If you require true synchronisation of multiple libraries, then a little rsync is your friend. Here's the options I use to keep my 2 libraries in sync (note: I only add music on one machine, so this is a one way sync) - I'm not sure what Slashcode will do to the following, so you may have to remove spaces...
rsync -v -r -C --ignore-existing --rsh="ssh" /users/my_local_account/music/itunes me@myserver_name_or_ip_address:/users/my_account_o n_the_server/music/
The one thing that iTunes lacks that annoys me is the ability to remotely control another copy of iTunes (like on the server) from my laptop. I actually have a script to do this through the shell, but I'd really like to be doing it through the iTunes interface.
Re:iTunes (Score:3, Insightful)
The only way that you could reliably make that happen would be to calibrate your network of machines via a test sound file and a microphone. And even then, I don't know how well the synchronization would hold up if the machines are running
Re:iTunes (Score:5, Informative)
http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20
Old article, but it'll be a step in a particular direction should someone be looking for that.
No, it's not a player.. it's just a repository that looks like a shared iTunes to other clients.
Re:iTunes (Score:4, Informative)
The program you want is called NetTunes [shirtpocket.com]. It provides a remote iTunes window for your music server, although the remote iTunes is not as responsive as a local copy. I'm using it to run a "headless" beige G3 as a music server.
Re:iTunes (Score:3, Informative)
Re:iTunes (Score:2)
Check the big shareware sites.
Re:iTunes (Score:5, Informative)
Re:iTunes (Score:3, Informative)
Just use Slashdot's <URL:link> tag
http://homepage.mac.com/jonassalling/Shareware/Cl
Re:iTunes (Score:2, Interesting)
Re:iTunes (Score:3, Informative)
Re:iTunes (Score:3, Informative)
So, in order to use iTunes and Airport Express for this
FM Transmitter (Score:2, Informative)
http://www.griffintechnology.com/products/roadt
Hmmm, go wired! (Score:4, Interesting)
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:5, Informative)
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:4, Insightful)
Anyway, I can't see a hacked-together wireless sound solution with P3 laptops and whatnot being nearly as good as a few well-placed wired speakers.
Digital sound. Wired, wireless, whatever, the transport medium does not really make a difference. It's 1's and 0's and whether they get from point A to point B via a wire or via EM it does not matter. P3 laptops should be fine for reassembling that audio and if they have a USB port or other digital audio out and connect to good speakers there is no reason why the sound quality would be any worse than any other solution. The wirelessness just makes it more portable (if you are a renter) and keeps you from having to run wires through your walls, ceiling, or floor.
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:4, Informative)
As long as the format is digital, you are correct. But typically the signal between between the amplifier and the speakers is analog. For analog, the quality of the connection matters.
In sound terms, you typically have four parts -
1. Source (in this case digital music files).
2. A Digital to Audio Converter.
3. Amplifier
4. Speakers
Wireless between points one and two (say a music server and a laptop playing the files) can be digital. However, at some point, you have to convert to analog.
In my option, a good setup for playback in each room would be an old laptop hooked up to an old stereo receiver/amp wired to a nice pair of bookshelf speakers - something with at least 5/12-6/12 low drivers. If you look around, you can probably find some nice used stereo amplifiers - pioneer, onkyo, yamaha. You can even buy decent new stereo amps for a small amount of money these days. I'd spring for new speakers in any event.
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:4, Insightful)
If they're biamped, they might be digital through the crossover even, but that's only because the amplifier is after the crossover. The amplifier is, and will always be, analog.
It's about the delivery stream continuity (Score:3)
typo (Score:3, Funny)
You misspelled "iPod."
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:5, Insightful)
I've got a hybrid house with wireless iTunes going to the kids' iMac upstairs, the Wired Xbox playing audio in the family room (cat 5 to the xbox, optical from there to the home theatre). You do NOT want to pipe video over 802.11g. You can do it, but if the main living spaces can be wired, leave the wireless bandwidth for better uses. The 'College Audiophile stereo' is hooked up to the music server in my office.
Any other music needs (garage) are handled by my iPod and an iTrip.
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:5, Informative)
"You had me all the way up to Monster Cable. [Shudder] You're falling for a lot of marketing hype."
ABX testing has shown Home Depot 18 gauge lamp cord to be identical or even superior to Monster Cable in all respects.
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:3, Funny)
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:3, Insightful)
I have no counter examples to offer up. I see no reason why this shouldn't be true.
I believe the snarky comments should be saved for those falling for the hype, not those who do actual scientific test
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:3, Interesting)
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:4, Informative)
http://home.austin.rr.com/tnulla/duncable.htm
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:4, Informative)
Distortion due to cables mainly arises when the cable resistance becomes frequency dependent. At that point it will damp some tones more than others, and everything falls apart. I suppose you could fix it by playing with the equalizer, but that is far from a good solution.
Prognosis: use a braided cable (many small strands, not one solid) with decent quality copper to keep the resistance down and your music should sound fine. The braids will reduce the increase in resistance due to the skin effect (where high-frequency current migrates to the surface of the conductor, reducing the effective cross-section of your cable).
Jw
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:5, Informative)
Whenever that happened I just ran to the nearest Lowe's or WalMart and bought two 16 gauge extension cords, chop off the ends and put Neutrik speaker connectors on it. Worked great and got a 100ft speaker cable for 8 dollars. You actually don't need more than 16 guage unless you're pushing serious wattage (>150 RMS).
Of course for any install job I would use 14 and 12 guage.
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:3, Informative)
I believe this is known as impedance. If I'm wrong someone will correct me, so I'm posting AC just in case.
On another note, "skin effect" really only becomes apparent at high frequencies. Low frequencies, such as those in your subwoofer channel, are less impacted by coarser-stranded cable.
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:3, Funny)
what about the "cool sounding name" respect? Did they do a survey to see which name sounds better? I think not, I'm sure "Monster Cable" sounds better than "Home Depot 18 Gauge Lamp Cord".
Which would you wanna tell your friends you wired your house with, hmmmmmmm?
Re:reference please? (Score:3, Informative)
Where cables DO make a difference is when you're hooking up line-level signals. i.e. the analog output of a CD player to your amp. The shielding of the cables is what makes the difference. And if the signal is coming from a turntable or microphone, it's REALLY important since those signals are boost
Re:And if you can solder something, do it. (Score:3, Informative)
1. Speakers can blow. If you need to swap a speaker out, using quick connects works a lot better. I use to run a sound company and sometimes we'd have to swap speakers out in the middle of a gig.
2. Soldering irons are hot! The voice coil of a speaker can easily be damaged (or it's life-time shortened) due to the heat. Especially high frequency d
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:3, Interesting)
Cheap cables that are never disturbed will have better,
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:2)
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:2)
I have tried to spend $$$ on all these Soundblaster audigy etc on the PC, and nothing even rivals my living room 5.1 Dolby/DTS setup. Don't get me wrong, things sound good on the PC, just not insane.
Re:Monster Cable (Score:5, Informative)
If you don't want to belive me, and since I'm just some schmo on the internet you shouldn't, do a search on Monster Cable at either of these websites, and read the consensus opinions.
Avs Forum [avsforum.com]
HDTVoice [hdtvoice.com]
If you're looking for high quality cables at an excellent price, try Bluejeans Cable [bluejeanscable.com]
Glod plated optical cables (Score:3, Funny)
Re:Monster Cable (Score:3, Informative)
If cable is installed inside a wall without conduit, it must be rated for in-wall use. Most lamp cord and extension cords are not, as well as your typical clear-jacket lamp-cord-style speaker cable. If installed in a plenum (air-handling space, typically the space above a false ceiling in your office building), then the insulation must be plenum rated. This
Re:Monster Cable (Score:4, Informative)
feeds troll...
Speaker wire is nothing more than fancy AC power cables, and with a good reason- analog audio is represented electrically as AC current. Nothing special, just simple AC. It's voltage and frequency vary considerably (voltage = volume, frequency = pitch), but it's just AC nonetheless. The only reason why it doesn't look like it is because most of the time there's a fancy connector on the end of it... or other times, just bare wire.
The only reason why your dryer has thicker cable than your TV is due to the fact that the dryer pulls much more current than the TV, and to avoid literally melting your cables and starting a nice electrical fire the conductive material is thicker to carry the increased current. The same is true for speaker cables- the cable used on big, multi-kW PA systems is much bigger than the 1 W headphones you've got.
As long as you don't do silly things like running audio parallel to power cables (tends to induce a 60 Hz hum into your audio) and make sure you cross all power cables @ 90 degree (or pi/2 radian) angles, you will get great performance with either Home Depot extension cords or Monster Cable speaker cable, because they are the exact same thing. Keyboard magazine ran an article a few years back on cable comparisons. The listening test, done with at least 10-15 people, showed no superior performer. The only way they could rank them is in how well they lasted (one of their tests: slam the cable in a pickup truck bed door 10 times and see if it still works).
There is differences between different kinds of cable, but the differences are for signal types. Analog audio is AC, so AC cables work just *great*. For example, twisted pair ethernet uses a differential signal to avoid interference problems, more details can be found here [connectworld.net]. Check up on your stuff next time before trolling so hard.
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:3, Insightful)
Even forgetting about quality issues for a moment, totally wireless is going to be way more of a headache than crawling around in the attic for a couple afternoons. It's not like a lack of interference now means it won't be a problem in the future.
And if you plan ahead and think out every possible configuration, and run all the cabling at onc
Re:Hmmm, go wired! (Score:4, Funny)
But, if you're really serious:
Forget viny, forget CD, forget DVD audio, forget 8-track. The only way to go is to get the whole orchestra in your house, and bring John Williams himself home to conduct it.
Anything less is for pikers who might as well just listen to 75-year-old AM radio playing scratchy wire-recordings, or the neighborhood cats singing in the street.
revealing quote (Score:4, Funny)
Geek.
Re:revealing quote (Score:2, Funny)
Same music in every room (Score:5, Funny)
So, here it is, how to have the same music play in every room in your house, in 3 easy steps:
1.) Buy stereo system with very large speakers
2.) Put stereo system in one room of your house. Orient speakers so they face toward the rest of the house.
3.) Turn volume up all the way.
If you still have some "dead spots" in the house where the sound doesn't reach, you'll need my specidal educational pamphlet "Sledgehammers and You," available for only $9.95, plus shipping and handling.
Re:Same music in every room (Score:2)
A pair of tin cans and a string make an excellent low-cost audio repeater system!
wi-Fi grumble (Score:2, Insightful)
For some odd reason I can't share the LAN wirelessly, only the gateway/NAT (internet) on the WAN port. Can't even ping any LAN connected computers while connected wirelessly, but loads slashdot like a charm though.
So, whats this wireless resource sharing everybody speaks of?
Re:wi-Fi grumble (Score:2)
First escrow check rocks, but... (Score:2)
Next year they'll ask for it back x2, at least
New House? (Score:5, Interesting)
Any wires that you do not plan to use right away can be left inside the walls (Take pictures of EVERYTHING before they sheetrock the place, you'll be glad you did later when you want to find the wires!). The rest of the stuff should have standard boxes that you can add the appropriate wall plates to later.
Smarthome [smarthome.com] is your friend for a lot of the finishing touches. I recommend a box like the ChannelPlus that allows you to insert your own audio/video on an unused cable channel. I did that and now I can watch DVDs or Movies coming from the computer in the closet on any TV in the house. ChannelPlus thoughtfully has IR devices that feed back up the coax line to the source so your remote controls will activate everything hidden in the closet.
I could go on and on about this- I've done it for my current home and will be building another home this year. I've already started thinking about improvements to my original layout
Re:New House? (Score:2)
Also remember to leave some pretty stout fishing line in with the runs of cable in case you need to make future runs.
Pipe it with EMT for most convenience (Score:3, Insightful)
In an ideal world the house would have been planned for this to begin with and a wiring plenum would have run been established between all the floors (a riser plenum) and there would be a cross-shaped plenum in each and every room, as we
Re:New House? (Score:2)
Re:New House? (Score:3, Insightful)
A gigabit per second should be enough speed for anyone.
Seriously though, put the money you'd spend running fibre in a bank account and it'll easily pay for the upgrade when it's actually necessary. Between compounded interest and dropping prices due to better technologies, it rarely makes sense to look 20 years into the future when it comes to computer equipment.
Re:New House? (Score:5, Interesting)
Even if you've got drywall down, depending on your insulation type you may still be able to fish wires through, especially if your ceiling/floor is not directly insulated - you can easily run wire parallel to floor joice if its not insulated, cut a small hole at the ceiling, and fish through the insulated walls - assuming its a spray-in non-hardening insulation, which most people use these days - my house is blown recycled newspaper which is apparently a very common insulation.
In more detail, I just (this weekend) closed on my new custom-built house. I've got 1.26 miles of wire in the house (easily calculated since everyone sold me the wire I used by the foot). Cat5e for phone, Cat6e for data, speakerwire, multiple coax runs to almost every room (so I can RF-mod signals and broadcast them to any other room), and in appropriate places audio, video, even two 25' DVI runs and two 25' RGB runs. In fact, voice/data/coax terminates to a Futuresmart panel [futuresmart.com] in my furnace room where signals can be routed...
As someone has already said, wireless is good for walking around with the laptop/etc. Not what you want for speakers. But not to mention when you've got the opportunity to build a gigabit backbone for the majority of the house, take it while you still can. Especially if you're serious about moving music or especially video.
My recently-received Mac Mini will be taking over as a media center in my home theater, and i'll be pulling MP3s and videos from my WinXP boxes via Samba (cut me some slack on the Windows comments, my dedicated server is BSD but XP still is my best machine for gaming and video).
Just did that (Score:3, Interesting)
I did the electrical wiring in the house. If you do it yourself or if you hire it done, believe me when I tell you that you have to put in the extra time to do a neat, clean job. Runs should have square corners. Multiple runs should follow the same path(s) b
Apple AirPort with AirTunes (Score:3, Informative)
Re:Apple AirPort with AirTunes (Score:2)
Sonos might be your answer... (Score:5, Informative)
Don't forget (Score:5, Funny)
I suggest batteries.. a lot of them.
Re:Don't forget (Score:2)
> I don't want to wire. Anything.
I suggest batteries.. a lot of them
Connected to your electronic components how?
[tt] lemmie get this straight... (Score:5, Interesting)
But you'd rather drop a big clunky P3 in the room with a wireless card.... why? I see no advantage in it. Wire up speakers in every room. All wires go to computer room. Wires then attached to a single machine that manipulates everything.
But, being a computer geek and having a buncha P3 boxes lying about is what makes you happy, knock yourself out.
Re:[tt] lemmie get this straight... (Score:3, Informative)
First off, in most house construction, both interior and exterior walls have horizontal firebreaks between the vertical studs (ie, an 18 inch 2x4 running horizontally), to provide fire protection (keeps the fire from getting to the attic as quick). So, to drill holes for wires (any wiring) after the sheetrock is on - means a flexible drill and a bit of luck - or punching holes in
Re:[tt] lemmie get this straight... (Score:3, Insightful)
The demand for pre-1980 houses or custom built houses is much smaller than for new run-of-the-mill houses, so you may end up with a house you can't sell when you need to.
Re:[tt] lemmie get this straight... (Score:3, Insightful)
But you'd rather drop a big clunky P3 in the room with a wireless card.... why? I see no advantage in it. Wire up speakers in every room. All wires go to computer room. Wires then attached to a single machine that manipulates everything.
But, being a computer geek and having a bunc
Try out Sonos (Score:2, Informative)
Roku Soundbridge (Score:4, Interesting)
Re:Roku Soundbridge (Score:4, Informative)
Here's how (Score:2, Funny)
Ethernet (wired or wireless)... (Score:5, Interesting)
Re:Ethernet (wired or wireless)... (Score:3, Insightful)
Yeah. For lower quality settings like my kitchen and outside porch. I'm going to buy an FM transmitter. Plug it into the 1/8" out on your computer and you have complete synchronous wireless transmission inside and outside of your house.
sound in all your rooms (Score:5, Informative)
Re:sound in all your rooms (Score:3, Insightful)
Just random thoughts.
--
lds
Re:sound in all your rooms (Score:5, Insightful)
Buy an FM transmitter kit for a hundred bucks, and your problems are solved. Synchronization is perfect, price is low, deployment is trivial.
Wireless audio distribution (Score:5, Informative)
I have the SlimDevices Squeezebox (http://www.slimdevices.com/ [slimdevices.com]), and it works great at the first task, but only moderately well at the second. There's a new company called Sonos (http://www.sonos.com/ [sonos.com]) that just released their product which does both very well.
I had a chance to beta-test the product and it really is as good as described. It's Linux-based, but not open-source. It utilizes a proprietary mesh-network running on top of 802.11g and it worked flawlessly in my three zone setup. All three zones could play high-bitrate audio in perfect sync with no drops.
The downside is that it is fairly expensive. If you don't need sync'd audio, I might go with a cheaper option. But if you do, I've yet to find anything that can top Sonos.
Re:Wireless audio distribution (Score:3, Interesting)
Perfect application for networking via power line (Score:2)
it seems to me that something like that would be ideal for sound systems considering the fact that the speakers need to get power from somewhere... even if signal transmission became completely wireless.. amplification will (AFAIK) always require a cable.. even if it's a short one connecting to a wall jack behind the speaker.
Did this. (Score:3, Informative)
I had a server in a closet, multiple machines playing at the same time.
The problem ends up being where you want to put the power (as in Receivers/Speakers.)
Unless you want really bad sound quality, and buy lots of speakers... Anything wireless, laptops, pcs, especially speakers, need a power oulet.
Long story short: You're limited by receivers and power outlets not wires. Continuing to try to be wireless is pointless.
Just run the wires through the a/c vents & put the speakers in the vents. It will still sound better and require less work than a wireless setup. Plus..., no visible wires...
-JT
MP3 player and major file server (Score:2)
Beware of latency (Score:2, Informative)
My Home-Grown System (Score:5, Interesting)
My wife uses this to stream music (in ogg and mp3 format) from my server downstairs to a Linux box in the living room I built for this purpose. She controls it from a GUI on a Windows box on the kitchen counter. I've tested it over wireless and it works fine.
I was thinking of putting this up on SourceForge - if anyone's interested let me know (msimpson at abel solutions dot com).
Don't listen to people who don't know audio! (Score:3, Informative)
Re:Don't listen to people who don't know audio! (Score:3, Informative)
Another inductance tidbit. NEVER coil up extra wire in a circle. That is basically an inductor which will act like a high pass filter and can kill your bass. If you have extra wire to play with, wrap it back and forth in an S pattern.
I've never heard about delay in high frequencies, but lower gauge wire is definitely a plus for longer cable runs.
Re:Don't listen to people who don't know audio! (Score:3, Interesting)
MythTV (Score:4, Informative)
There are several websites on converting laptops into "picture frames" http://www.likelysoft.com/hacks/pictureframes.shtm l [likelysoft.com],
http://slashdot.org/article.pl?sid=04/12/27/023922 2&tid=222&tid=1 [slashdot.org],
http://channel9.msdn.com/wiki/default.aspx/Channel 9.JunktopRevival [msdn.com]
Which you could modify slightly to add built in powered speakers and hang one in each room.
- Mike
Buy a walkman (Score:4, Insightful)
As much as I hate apple, just buy an Ipod and cary it around with you if you can't stand to be stuck in just one room listening to music.
Cool analog solutions (Score:3, Funny)
Use Slimserver and Softsqueeze (Score:4, Interesting)
Done!
FM Transmitter (Score:3, Informative)
Pros:
Cons:
Really simple, here's how: (Score:4, Informative)
Setup a linux server, with enough disk space for your media collection and whatever else you want to store there. Install gnumpd3 from
here: http://www.gnu.org/software/gnump3d/ [gnu.org]
Install a desktop linux distro on the machines in each room. Aim a web browser from any machine at the URL of the gnump3d server and viola! you have music from your collection on demand in any room!
Streaming radio style music is easy as well. Install icecast from here:http://www.icecast.org/ [icecast.org]
and aim the xmms player from here: http://www.xmms.org/ [xmms.org] and you have streaming media! woohoo!
If you want to control a distribution system that plays the same songs things get more complicated, you'll need Apple computer's RTSP server and some client software to get everything sync'd throughout the house.
I use secure shell from my zaurus wireless pda and mpg123 and aumix to operate this from a pocket sized device. For everything else I just browse the music library with gnump3d's web interface. FWIW, I use SuSE linux. It came with all the above except for the Darwin Stream Server (or whatever it is that Apple calls it these days). I had to download and compile the icecast source, but what the heck, it wasn't to hard to do either.
HTH
Sonos (Score:3, Informative)
After quite a bit of googling, I've found that Sonos (http://www.sonos.com) has a really nice setup. It's not Linux-friendly, but if you're a Windows household, or can have an old Windows box lying around, it'll be great for you.
The basic setup is as follows: You can have up to 32 base stations, which act as both input and output. Plug a base station into your PC and install the software, and voila, it will now interface with the remote. The base stations communicate with each other wirelessly, acting as repeaters, or a wireless mesh, if you prefer.
You can have multiple sources (with multiple base stations, that is), but I don't know whether or not it is available to the other base stations if it isn't coming through the PC (and through their software), so you'll likely want to check into that.
All in all tho, while it is a little pricy, does involve zero wiring (except power, and ethernet if you don't have wireless), and the cost of putting together a 5-6 room thing with 4 remotes is still cheaper to put together a decent quality multi-zone whole house audio system.
-9mm-
FM Transmitter (Score:4, Funny)
Re:FM Transmitter (Score:3, Insightful)
You can get a nice little PLL FM transmitter from ccrane.com [ccrane.com] for around US$70.
With the addition of an antenna wire that is about 6 feet long on the transmitter, I get hiss-free FM stereo that sounds certainly good enough for me, in every room of my house and out in the shop. I've ripped every CD I own and put that on "shuffle" from the main PC, and have either nice stereos (living room
Sync issues (Score:3, Interesting)
I have a smallish 1bdr flat and I like to have the same music playing in my bedroom, kitchen and bathroom as I roam through the flat in the morning (my neighbors must love me). I tried to stream mp3 from a central server but the laptops would all have a different buffer and the sound was out of sync in all three locations.
My final solution was to use an FM transmitter. The upside is I can use cheap receivers in the kitchen and bathroom. The downside is poor sound quality in those locations (the bedroom is wired to the source).
I've already got the low cos[tt] solution at home (Score:3, Interesting)
1. Run speaker wires to every room
2. Cart the music playing system (I use a PC with XMMS on Linux) around the house
3. Run network cables to each room I wanted to listen to music in
4. Or just have a device in every room
All of these seemed cost/time prohibitive. Then I got to thinking... What do I have in every room of the house that I could use to get music into the room without a lot of effort? It dawned on me: heating/cooling ducts. (If you have steam heat or baseboard heat, then my post doesn't apply to you) What I wound up doing was moving my music playing PC from the living room down to my basement (yeah mine. not my parent's) and putting a speaker transducer in the heater that connects to the main ducts. Then I set the volume high enough the the vibrations travel through the ducts to every room at a suitable volume.
Pros:
1. Wireless!!!
2. Plays music!!!
3. Answers silly Ask Slashdot question!!!
Cons:
1. Tinny sound at best
2. Too loud when you are closer to the first floor
3. Can't control what your listening to (I play in random+repeat mode)
I'm pretty sure that the majority of you have ductwork in your house and could take advantage of this innovative approach to whole house wireless music distribution. Let me know what you think!
Re:Squeezebox (Score:2)
Re:Slimp3 (Score:3, Interesting)
The
NetGear MP101 can be had for ~$75 after rebate at your local Big Box Electronics Store. Note, though, that the experiences with this product range from miserable to acceptable, largely because of weak wireless capability (it works for some, not others) and a flaky server software package.
The slim, on the other hand, has a fairly amazing open package with some awesome plugins developed by the community. The downside, though,